The "Look at That" Game: Teaching Your Dog to Notice Without Reacting

You've probably been there. You're on a walk, everything seems fine, and then—bam—your dog spots another dog across the street. Before you can even think, they're barking, lunging, spinning at the end of the leash like a furry tornado. You're standing there, mortified, trying to get them to stop while the other owner hurries away with a judgmental glance.

What if I told you there's a way to short-circuit this whole meltdown before it starts? Not by forcing your dog to ignore their triggers (which, let's be honest, never really works), but by actually teaching them to look at those triggers—and then look right back at you for a reward.

Enter the "Look at That" game. Or LAT, if you want to sound like you know what you're talking about at the dog park.

What Is the "Look at That" Game?

The "Look at That" game is a training protocol developed by Leslie McDevitt as part of her Control Unleashed program. Here's the cool part: she originally created it for sport dogs—those high-energy agility and competition dogs who would get so over-aroused at trials that they couldn't focus. But dog trainers quickly discovered something amazing: this simple game works wonders for reactive dogs too.

In my decade and a half working with reactive dogs, I've found LAT to be one of the most productive and versatile protocols available for transforming a dog's behavior. It's deceptively simple but incredibly powerful.

Here's the basic idea: instead of trying to distract your dog from their triggers or forcing them to look away, you actually reward them for looking at the trigger. I know, I know—it sounds completely backwards. But stick with me, because there's some solid behavioral science behind this.

Why Looking Is Actually Good

Most of us with reactive dogs have developed a kind of sixth sense for spotting trouble. We see a dog half a block away and immediately start trying to redirect our dog's attention. "Look at me! Look at ME!" we whisper frantically, shoving treats in their face while they completely ignore us and spiral into reactive mode anyway.

The problem with this approach? Your dog is going to notice the trigger. They always do. And when you try to prevent them from looking at it, you create this weird tension where they're straining to look, you're trying to block their view, and nobody's winning.

The "Look at That" game flips the script. Instead of making the trigger off-limits, you make looking at it a good thing. When your dog looks at the trigger and then checks back in with you—boom, treat party. Over time, your dog learns that seeing their trigger predicts good stuff happening. The emotional response changes from "oh no, threat!" to "oh hey, it's treat time!"

The Science Behind Why LAT Works

LAT is a form of counter-conditioning, which is just a fancy way of saying "changing your dog's emotional response to something." When your dog sees their trigger and immediately starts barking and lunging, that's an emotional reaction rooted in fear, frustration, or anxiety. You can't train an emotion away—you have to replace it with a different emotion.

By marking the moment your dog looks at the trigger and immediately following it with a high-value reward, you're creating a new association. Trigger = treats. It's classical conditioning at its finest, and it works because you're working with your dog's natural behavior instead of against it.

Research shows that most reactive dogs show early improvement within 4-8 weeks of consistent counter-conditioning work. That's not to say your dog will be "cured" in two months—reactivity is a journey, not a destination—but you should start seeing meaningful changes pretty quickly if you're consistent.

Getting Started: What You'll Need

Before you dive into LAT training, gather your supplies:

• High-value treats: I'm talking about the good stuff—real chicken, cheese, hot dogs, freeze-dried liver. Kibble isn't going to cut it when there's a trigger around. The treats need to be small (pea-sized) so you can deliver lots of them without filling up your dog.
• A marker: This can be a clicker or a verbal marker like "Yes!" If you're using a verbal marker, pick something short and sharp that you can say quickly and consistently.
• A trigger: You'll need to set up training scenarios where you can control the distance and intensity of the trigger. This might mean recruiting a friend with a calm dog, using a stuffed dog as a decoy (seriously, it works), or finding a location where triggers appear predictably but at a distance.
• Patience: This is maybe the most important supply. LAT requires you to be observant and quick with your timing. Some sessions will feel amazing; others will feel like you're getting nowhere. Both are normal.

Step-by-Step: How to Play the Game

Step 1: Charge Your Marker

If you're using a clicker or verbal marker, make sure your dog understands that marker = treat. Spend a few sessions just clicking and treating, clicking and treating, until your dog's ears perk up at the sound. This should happen pretty quickly—most dogs figure out the game within a few dozen repetitions.

Step 2: Find the Right Distance

This is crucial. You need to find your dog's threshold distance—the point where they notice the trigger but aren't reacting to it yet. If your dog is already barking and lunging, you're too close. Back it up until your dog can see the trigger without losing their mind.

For some dogs, this might be across a football field. That's totally fine. Start where your dog can succeed. Success builds confidence—for both of you.

Step 3: Wait for the Look

Set up your training scenario with your dog at threshold distance from the trigger. Now wait. Don't cue your dog to look at the trigger. Don't point or say "look!" Just wait for them to notice it on their own.

The moment your dog looks at the trigger—click or say your marker word, then immediately deliver a treat. The sequence should be: look at trigger → marker → treat.

Step 4: Watch for the Magic Moment

Here's where LAT gets really cool. After several repetitions, you'll start to notice something: instead of fixating on the trigger, your dog will glance at it and then immediately look back at you. This is the goal. This is what we're building toward.

When your dog starts offering that look-back behavior spontaneously, you know the game is working. Your dog is learning that their trigger predicts treats, and they're starting to check in with you automatically.

Step 5: Gradually Decrease Distance

As your dog gets more comfortable, you can start decreasing the distance to the trigger—but do this slowly. We're talking about moving 5-10 feet closer at a time, and only if your dog is consistently successful at the current distance. If your dog starts reacting again, you've moved too fast. Back up and take it slower.

Troubleshooting Common LAT Problems

"My Dog Won't Take Treats"

If your dog refuses treats during LAT training, you're probably too close to the trigger. When dogs are over threshold, they physically can't eat—their body is in fight-or-flight mode, and digestion shuts down. Increase your distance and try again.

"My Dog Reacts Before I Can Mark Anything"

This also means you're too close. LAT only works when your dog notices the trigger before reacting to it. You need that split-second window where they're observing but not yet emotionally triggered. If you're not getting that window, increase distance.

"My Dog Fixates and Won't Look Back"

Some dogs get stuck staring at their triggers. If this happens, you can try a few things:

• Use a rapid series of markers and treats to break the fixation
• Take a step backward to increase distance
• Use a kissy noise or gentle touch to interrupt the stare, then mark and treat when they look at you

"My Dog Is Doing Great in Training but Not in Real Life"

This is super common. Dogs don't generalize well, so just because they can do LAT in your backyard with a fake dog doesn't mean they'll remember the game on a busy street with a real dog. You need to practice in lots of different locations and with various triggers before you'll see it transfer to real-life situations.

When LAT Works Best (And When to Try Something Else)

LAT is highly effective for mild to moderate reactivity. If your dog gets a little tense around triggers, or barks and lunges but can recover quickly, LAT is an excellent choice. It's force-free, builds confidence, and helps your dog develop self-regulation skills.

However, LAT may not be sufficient on its own for severe reactivity or aggression. If your dog has a history of biting, or if their reactions are extreme and prolonged, you might need to combine LAT with other techniques like Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) or work with a veterinary behaviorist who can assess whether medication might help.

There's no shame in needing extra help. Reactivity exists on a spectrum, and what works for one dog might not work for another. The important thing is finding the right combination of tools for your specific situation.

Taking LAT into Real Life

Once your dog understands the LAT game in structured training sessions, you can start using it in everyday life. Here's how:

On walks: When you see a trigger in the distance, let your dog notice it, mark the look, and treat. If your dog looks back at you spontaneously, jackpot! Give them several treats in a row. This reinforces that checking in with you is the best thing ever.

In your home: If your dog barks at things outside the window, you can use LAT there too. When they notice something and alert but haven't started barking yet, mark and treat. Over time, this can reduce window barking significantly.

At the vet or groomer: LAT can help reactive dogs stay calmer during handling. Let them look at the scary vet tech, mark, treat, and repeat. It gives them something to do other than panic.

The Mindset Shift That Makes LAT Work

Here's the thing about the "Look at That" game that most people miss: it's not really about the looking. It's about changing your dog's emotional state. Every time you mark and treat, you're telling your dog, "That thing you're worried about? It's actually a predictor of awesome things happening."

This requires a shift in how you think about walks and training. Instead of dreading trigger encounters and trying to avoid them, you start seeing them as training opportunities. Oh, there's a dog across the street? Perfect! Time to play LAT.

It takes time, and there will be setbacks. Your dog will have bad days. You'll misjudge distances and push too hard. That's all part of the process. The key is consistency and a willingness to go at your dog's pace.

Final Thoughts

The "Look at That" game is one of my favorite tools for reactive dogs because it empowers both ends of the leash. Your dog learns that they can encounter triggers without needing to react, and you learn to trust your dog's ability to make good choices. It's a game-changer for many reactive dog families.

Remember, reactivity doesn't disappear overnight. But with consistent practice, most dogs show noticeable improvement within a couple of months. And once your dog starts offering those spontaneous check-ins—glancing at the trigger and then looking back at you with that "hey, where's my treat?" expression—you'll know all the hard work was worth it.

So grab some chicken, find your threshold distance, and start playing. Your reactive dog might just surprise you.

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Want more help with your reactive dog? The Reactive Dog Reset program includes detailed LAT training videos, troubleshooting guides, and a step-by-step protocol for building calm behavior around triggers.